Birthplace of Aphrodite, Cyprus has seduced and inspired generations of travellers. From Mycenean Greeks and invading Persians to sunburnt Crusaders, Ottoman pashas and, latterly, British and Russian expats, each has left their mark. Yet as well as a complex, multilayered past, the word “Cyprus” also conjures up images of dazzling beaches, shimmering blue seas, endless summers and tables groaning under platters of meze and bottles of sweet chilled wine.